Tucked away in the picturesque region of Lunigiana, Villafranca may not be the first name that comes to mind when you think of dreamy Italian getaways—but that’s exactly its charm. This ancient village, cradled between valleys, is a crossroads where history, culture, and hospitality come together in ways big cities can’t touch.
Introduction: More Than Just a Village
When Francesco and Juliana picked me up from the airport to drive us to Villafranca, I thought I knew what to expect. This is the town where Francesco grew up and where his mother still lives, and in my head, I had pictured a stereotypical Italian “village.” You know the kind: a tiny cluster of houses, maybe one or two shops, a post office, and a whole lot of silence.
I couldn’t have been more wrong.
As we drove in, I realized Villafranca wasn’t a sleepy hamlet; it was a bustling little city. To be honest, it actually felt bigger and livelier than my own city back home in California! It shattered my expectations in the best way. Instead of just a few isolated buildings, I saw streets lined with apartments, quaint storefronts, and a thriving local economy. It was unexpected—a place that managed to be charming and “small-town” while still buzzing with energy and life.
A Welcome That Felt Like Home
I’ll be honest: despite my excitement, I was apprehensive about this visit. Even though I had spoken to Francesco’s mom, Louisa, on the phone a few times (with Francesco translating my little bit of Italian), meeting in person felt different. With the current social climate back in the United States, I wasn’t sure how I would be received or accepted. I didn’t know if I would stand out or if I would truly belong.
I shouldn’t have worried.
Louisa was the definition of welcoming. The moment we met, she pulled me into a hug and gave me the classic Italian greeting—a kiss on both cheeks. The warmth was instant. She had even been telling her neighbors I was coming! I was introduced to Pietro and Nadia, who greeted me with the same open arms, hugging me and telling me I was beautiful. Any lingering anxiety I had just melted away.
When I walked into her home, she had acorns boiling on the stove. I gave them a try, and even though they weren’t for me, she didn’t mind a bit—she just moved right on to the next course. She kept feeding me cheese before the pizza we ordered even arrived! We spent the evening eating, laughing, and taking pictures with her friends who had stopped by to meet me.
At one point, Louisa went out to her garden and picked fresh rosemary for me. It smelled incredible. She wanted to cook something special with it, but I was already absolutely stuffed. Naturally, she told Francesco and Juliana that I “didn’t eat enough”—the universal language of grandmothers everywhere. Before I left for the hotel, she handed me two bags of cookies—”just in case” I got hungry in the middle of the night.
It was such a blessing to meet them, and I am already counting down the days until I can go back.
History Right Next Door
You don’t have to look far to find history in Villafranca. In fact, it was right next to my hotel. Standing tall beside the Albergo Manganelli is a lone church steeple, a solemn silhouette against the sky.
Francesco and Juliana explained the story to me: the church itself was destroyed during a bombing in World War II. I stood there looking at it, genuinely surprised that neither the United States nor Italy had ever gone back to rebuild the main structure. But perhaps that is the point. It remains there as it is—not fixed, but remembered.
On the same grounds, I discovered a monument to Dante Alighieri. I had no idea before arriving that this town had such a deep connection to the famous poet. The locals are incredibly proud of this link; there is even a belief held by many that Dante used to do some of his writing right here at the church site.
And that is the heartbeat of Villafranca: Pride. The people here are fiercely proud of their village, their resilience, their history, and—of course—their food.
Albergo Manganelli: The Heart of the Village
For an immersion in Villafranca’s history, Albergo Manganelli Ristorante is the spot. Founded in 1902, it has been a landmark for over a century. Sadly, the beloved proprietor, Giancarlo, passed away recently, but his son, Filippo—who also happens to be the Mayor of Villafranca!—is carrying on the legacy. Francesco knows the family well, having known both Giancarlo and Filippo, so arriving there felt less like checking into a hotel and more like visiting old friends.
There wasn’t a formal front desk. When I arrived, Filippo was just sitting at a table in the dining room, working.
It was a funny clash of cultures at first. I went into “American business mode,” immediately asking, “Where do I pay? How much is it?” Filippo didn’t even respond to the money questions! He wasn’t being rude; he was just being Italian. He wanted to know how my flight was, where I was from, and if I was hungry. He spoke English and was incredibly kind, taking my passport info and handing me the key without a single worry about the bill. It was a refreshing reminder to slow down.
The Food: Fresh & Authentic If you stay here, bring your appetite. The female staff members were lovely, though they shared Louisa’s concern that I wasn’t eating enough (I promise, I was!).
Dining here is an experience. There is no printed menu. They simply come to the table and tell you what they made fresh that day. I had ravioli that had been stuffed that very morning, and it was incredible. For breakfast, I fell in love with these small, round cakes topped with Nutella—a local staple.
Dinner doesn’t start until around 7:00 PM, which is an adjustment for those used to eating earlier, but the restaurant fills up with locals, which is always the best sign. I embraced the “When in Italy” mindset, stayed up late, and enjoyed plenty of local wine.
An Honest Note on Accessibility While I loved the warmth of Albergo Manganelli, I have to be honest with my clients who have mobility challenges. This is a historic building, and it is not accessible.
There is a small, low step to enter the building, which is manageable. However, the real challenge is inside. There are no rooms on the ground floor, and there is no elevator. To get to my room, I had to walk up two full flights of stairs.
I did not have my scooter on this leg of the trip; Francesco had rented an SUV to make transfers easier, and he and Juliana helped me up and down the stairs. The room itself was nice and spacious (a queen and a single bed), though the bathroom also required a step up to enter.
- My Verdict: If you are able-bodied and want an authentic, heartwarming Italian experience, I highly recommend it.
- For Wheelchair/Scooter Users: I cannot recommend this specific hotel, as it cannot accommodate our needs. (But don’t worry—contact me, and we can find an accessible option nearby so you can still visit this amazing town!).
Where Is Villafranca?
Villafranca di Verona is perfectly situated for exploring Northern Italy’s treasures. It’s just a 16-minute drive from Verona (the city of Romeo and Juliet) and close to Lake Garda. For bigger adventures, Milan, Venice, and Florence are all reachable by train or car within a few hours. It is the ideal base for explorers who want to see the sights but sleep in a place that feels like home.
Getting in Touch
For those ready to discover the best of Villafranca—for a relaxing stay, a special event, or just dinner the way it should be—don’t hesitate to reach out:
No Limit Travel Agency Office Phone: 510.948.8282 Cell: 510.907.0738 Email: Nolimittravelagency2020@gmail.com
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